6/13/2011

Sonin 00700 Water Alarm with Remote Sensor Review

Sonin 00700 Water Alarm with Remote Sensor
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I bought this about 2 years ago to detect a leak from my water heater. Well, today I noticed wet carpet outside the closet where the water heater is but no alarm had gone off. I pressed the test button and it went off as expected. I then set the sensor in a pool of water and nothing. I Replaced the battery and tried again. Nothing. So the product doesn't do the one thing it's designed to do. Look elsewhere.

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Sounds an 85dB alarm when a leak is detected. Requires one 9-Volt battery.

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6/12/2011

Wayne PC2 115-Volt 340 GPH Portable Transfer Water Pump, Bronze Review

Wayne PC2 115-Volt 340 GPH Portable Transfer Water Pump, Bronze
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This is a very nice little pump. There are two problems though. It pulls 14 amps. If you want to use it in standard DC applications, a 10 amp max is more compatible. To use this in an automated/switched environment, I had to find a special relay to use. Second, the impellers burn out fast if this pump runs dry. There seems to be no easy way to order additional impellers and that's a pain.

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PC2 Features: -Chrome-plated bronze transfer utility pump. -Kit includes: 72'' Suction hose, water suction attachment and replacements parts kit. -With suction attachment connected, filters debris and removes water down to 0.13'' of surface. -0.75'' Suction/discharge for easy connection to standard garden hose. -Portable transfer pump you can take anywhere. -Easy carry handle for portability. -1-Year warranty. Specifications: -Pumps up to 340 GPH @ 0'. -Voltage: 120V. -Phase: Single-phase.

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6/11/2011

Easy Heat EH-38 Freeze Thermostatically Controlled Valve and Pipe Heating System Review

Easy Heat EH-38 Freeze Thermostatically Controlled Valve and Pipe Heating System
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I bought this thermostat control for use with a heater for keeping a battery warm during the winter. Last winter the battery heater was always on to keep the battery warm to start an automatic generator. The heating during times when the temperature warmed up resulted in a damaged battery. This thermostat is just the right temperature range. After reading the negative review, I tested all three devices by cycling the temperature from 10-60 degrees F several times to verify they are working correctly.

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The Easy Heat EH-38 thermostatically controlled valve and pipe heating system automatically turns on heating cable only when needed (35-degrees or below). This unit extends cable life, saves energy, and eliminates the need to unplug cables in warm weather or forgetting to plug in cables when temperatures fall. The control valve and pipe heating system is for use with Easy Heat freeze free cable in dry locations. It comes with a power indicator light that lights up when the thermostat is energized and is easy-to-install. The power shuts off when the temperature rises to 50-degrees Fahrenheit (10-degrees Centigrade).

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6/10/2011

M-D Building Products 64444 30-Foot Pipe Heating Cable with Thermostat Review

M-D Building Products 64444 30-Foot Pipe Heating Cable with Thermostat
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I have a 110-year-old house with a flat roof. It's a beautiful old row house in the city. The problem with a flat roof -- as everyone knows -- is a lack of drainage. In wintertime, the area around the downspout collects water during the day when the sun is out and the surface (at least) freezes when the sun goes down. That causes a back-up of water and leaking down the interior walls. NOT A GOOD THING!!! This "heater" cable keeps things just warm enough to keep the water flowing down the spout and out of the house. It has a thermostat control which means it only uses electricity when the temperature dips below a certain level.

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MD Products 64444 30' Pipe Heating Cable With ThermostatMD Products 64444 30' Pipe Heating Cable With Thermostat Features:; UL and CSA approved pipe heating cable designed to prevent water line freeze up; Ready to install, grounded cord and plug, thermostat controlled, with pilot light; 30'

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6/09/2011

Watts 500528 Premier Four-Chamber Tankless Electric Hot Water Heater Review

Watts 500528 Premier Four-Chamber Tankless Electric Hot Water Heater
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My conventional water heater died and I decided to go tankless since this is a second home. The price was quite a bit higher than a replacement tank heater, but since I use very little hot water it seemed like a good fit.
The first thing that I ran into was the electric requirements. This thing has four 7000W heating elements and each one requires a separate 30A 240V circuit. Since I didn't have that much room in my service panel, I had to install a 125A sub-panel. This also required pulling four 10-2 cables through the attic and into the utility room. Given the price of copper, this is not an insignificant expense. If I had it to do all over again, I might have moved the water heater closer to the service panel.
The actual pluming was pretty easy. It works just like a regular water heater with 3/4 inch inlet and outlet. The specifications say that a blowoff valve is not required, so I did not install one.
I am a little upset by the design of this thing. The pipes come in from the top and the wiring is on the side. The problem with this arrangement is that any sweating from the pipes runs down into the unit and onto the electrical wiring. I had a small leak in a connection when I first turned the water on and the water dripped down onto the circuit board in the unit. Fortunately, I didn't have the power on yet, but it did take a bit of work to dry everything out. I would have much preferred that the water connection would have been on the bottom and the electricity on the top.
When I powered the unit up, there were a number of clicks and beeps and flashing LEDs. The unit quickly settled down into a constant blinking of a single green LED. The very limited manual indicated that this was the normal operating mode. After a few small tests at the kitchen sink, I was satisfied that the unit was working, so I decided to take a shower.
Everything worked fine and the water was plenty hot enough. As a matter of fact, I will probably turn the temperature down a bit from the factory setting. One issue that I have is that when any of the four elements turn on it causes my lights to flicker slightly. This is a common problem since this also happens with any large electrical load like the heat pump or hot tub. The issue is that the elements seem to be turning on and off constantly during the shower causing a lot of flickering. This is something that I guess I will have to live with.
I only have a 200A service into my house and this is the minimum recommended for this unit. It will be interesting to see how well the power holds up when I have the heat pump, hot tub, and a shower all going at the same time. I probably ought to turn on all the burners on the stove at the same time just to really give it a shakedown.
The only other issue that I have is the apparent lack of information on this unit. I don't believe that the manufacturer has any useful web site or customer support. The manuals that come with the unit are very limited in information. With the unit powered on and idle, there are periodic relay clicks that I assume are normal, but nothing is mentioned in the manual. I am guessing that this is some sort of diagnostics, but I am not really sure.
Over all, I probably would not replace a conventional water heater with this unit again. Given the total cost and time involved, I cannot see that I will ever come close to recovering the investment. I am a technology junkie and like to try new things, so the experience is worth something I guess.

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The Watts Premier 4-chamber tankless electric hot water heater provides an endless supply of hot water. Designed for potable whole house residential applications as well as commercial applications, such as specialty restaurants, convenience stores, hotels and pet grooming shops, this hot water heater is ideal as a back-up to solar and/or geothermal passive heat recovery systems. Compact, lightweight, and microprocessor controlled, it contains power-sharing technology. The heating chamber is made of performance polymer nylon material.

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6/08/2011

Reliance 9000029-005 29-Inch Aluminum Anode Rod Review

Reliance 9000029-005 29-Inch Aluminum Anode Rod
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I purchased this quite awhile ago and never got around to reviewing it. This sacrificial rod came well packaged and easy to use. The most difficult thing was removing the old rod. Actually, it was a rusted head by the time I removed it. The rod itself had long since corroded into a brown mush on the bottom of the water heater.
Every homeowner needs a good socket set of varying sizes. If you don't already have one, I recommend purchasing or borrowing a "breaker bar." You will need to remove the old rod (or what's left of it) and believe me, it may not come off easily. The socket size I used was 1-1/16 so you might want to acquire one of those as well. Make sure you get someone to keep the water heater from moving while removing the old bolt. The last thing you want to do is to break a water line.
I have yet to remove this rod, but it will have to be replaced eventually. They are supposed to sacrifice themselves so you don't have to buy a new water heater every few years.

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9000029-005 Features: -Anode rod. -Aluminum construction. -Overall Height: 29''.

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6/07/2011

Mr. Heater MH200CV 200,000-BTU Propane Convection Heater Review

Mr. Heater MH200CV 200,000-BTU Propane Convection Heater
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I have only had this heater two days. That said, I took it home yesterday attached the propane (that was essentially all there was to set-up) and fired it up on low and it put out a pleasant heat.
This morning the temperature was about 6 below zero and I turned the heater on and set it on high. I let it run for about 15 minutes and the garage had warmed up significantly, it was at least 40-50 degrees and possibly warmer. I didn't check the thermometer (digital one in my car) until after I left the garage. But as I was driving my car away from the garage I noticed the temperature was rapidly counting down - at that point it was already down to 20 degrees - and continued down to the outside temperature of 6 below.
My garage is detached 30' X 30' with 14' high ceiling, so it was heating over 12,000 cubic feet.
This is a replacement space heater. The previous one was a Mr. Heater Portable Propane Forced Air Heater (jet heater). I was a bit worried with the fact that the new one was convection but that concern was unfounded. It actually heats the area much faster. The convection heater does not seem to put off nearly as much smell as the forced air heater, in fact it was essentially odorless. Although with this first test I did not use a fan to circulate the warm air, I am sure that will improve it's already impressive performance. Unlike the forced air heater, this one does not require an electrical connection to operate so all you have to do is supply the gas and turn it on. One possible drawback would be that I was able to use the forced air heater to thaw frozen pipes since you can direct the heat, and the convection heater won't work for that.
It does make noise as it burns the propane. If you have a weed burner, or a branding stove, that is what it sounds like. The volume increases at higher settings. It was a little quieter than the forced air heater though.

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The Mr. Heater MH200CV 30,000-80,000 Btu portable propane convection heater is ideal for heating very large indoor spaces of up to 4,700 square feet. The convection design draws cold air up from the floor through propane burners then distributes warm air out through the top, giving you 360-degree directional heat. The unit features a piezo push-button igniter, adjustable heat output control (from 75,000-200,000 Btu), and an "Insta-Lock" system for easy, tool-free assembly. For safety, the heater shuts off with loss of flame, and the sturdy base keeps it upright. The included 10-foot hose connects to 100-pound (minimum required) propane cylinder. CSA Certified. One-year limited warranty.--Josh Dettweiler
What's in the BoxHeater, thermocouple, manual, operating instructions, regulator, 10-foot hose

Five Tips for Buying a HeaterChoosing a space heater is a matter of sifting through a bewildering array of types, power ratings, and fuel sources. Let's break it down a little to make the process easier.

What are the different types of space heaters?
Radiant heaters emit infrared radiation that directly warms the objects in front of the heaters (rather than the surrounding air). If you only need heat by a desk or in a small section of a room, a radiant heater is quiet and will use very little power.
Forced-air heaters use a fan to blow air that has been warmed by metal or ceramic heating elements. A forced-air heater is appropriate for quickly heating up a small- to medium-sized room, but can be noisy.
Convection heaters draw cold air from the floor; the air is warmed by heating coils and emitted from the top of the heater. A convection heater is appropriate for quickly heating up a small- to medium-sized room, but also can be noisy.
Radiators work by heating oil enclosed in a reservoir, gradually heating the surrounding air. If heating speed isn't an issue, you might want to opt for a radiator. These are extremely quiet and effective--perfect for bedrooms.


Should I buy an electric or a combustion model?If you want a heater that will be available in emergencies, or that can heat areas larger than a single room, choose a "combustion" model--one that is powered by a gas or fuel like propane, kerosene, natural gas, or diesel. Which fuel type you choose depends largely on convenience and local availability. For example, diesel would be appropriate for a heater you take with you on long car trips.

How powerful a heater do I need?Heaters are rated by BTU, which stands for British Thermal Unit (the amount of heat needed to heat one pound of water by 1 degree F). To find out how many BTU you need:
Calculate the volume of the space to be heated by multiplying square footage by height.
Multiply that number by 4 if your insulation is poor, 3 if it's average, or 2 if it's good.
The resulting number is a ballpark figure for how many BTU you'll need.
Do space heaters cost a lot to operate? As a general rule, electric space heaters are more expensive to use than combustion models. To ensure energy efficiency, a thermostat is a must-have feature for any heater. For radiant heaters, models with a 360 degree heating surface can heat larger spaces. If you need a forced-air heater, models with ceramic elements tend to be more efficient.

Are space heaters a fire hazard?Space heaters are implicated in about 25,000 residential fires every year. To ensure proper safety, always follow the manufacturer's usage instructions and fill out the warranty card to receive informational updates from the manufacturer. Also, look for extra safety features such as an automatic shutoff switch that can shut down the unit if, for example, it gets upended. In addition, choose a model where the heating element is adequately enclosed within the unit.


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